They don't have one in Thailand. But if they did, Michelin would definitely place Jahn, at the exciting new Conrad Koh Samui, in its guide and award at least two of its highly coveted stars to this fabulous restaurant.

And that's not just empty flattery, as both the resort's Executive Chef, Konrad Inghelram, and Jahn's innovative Executive Sous Chef, Joe Diaz, have worked alongside some of the world's culinary giants in their renowned Michelin-starred restaurants. Joe having been under the direct command of legends such as Ferran Adria at El Bulli in Spain, Alain Ducasse at Plaza Athenee in Paris, Thomas Keller at French Laundry in California, Nobu Matsuhisa at Nobu in Florida, and Sergi Arola at La Broche in Madrid. What Joe has learnt, during the time he's built up his impressive CV, he's expanded upon at Jahn and the dishes he's created for diners here are simply incredible. But we'll come to them a bit later.

Conrad isn't the sort of place that you just 'pop' into. It's way off the beaten track in its very own private world of exclusivity, luxury and elegance. Getting there is an adventure in itself, as it's on a promontory at the south-western point of Samui. Sure, a taxi will whisk you there in 35 minutes from Chaweng but part of the fun is discovering it for yourself.

Follow the ring-road clockwise and after passing through Lamai, and then the Muslim fishing village of Hua Thanon, take the first road on your left (the 4170) and simply continue for next seven kilometres until you reach the Samui Snake Farm, where you turn left again and pick up signs for Conrad. The concrete road will lead you onwards for a further kilometre or two and then very steeply upwards to the car park at the top of the 'mountain'.

Wander along to the open-air lobby and you'll be met by a truly breathtaking panoramic vista across the shimmering Gulf of Thailand to the famous Five Islands and beyond. Then go to the edge and you'll experience yet another incredible view if you look directly down, as you'll see that Conrad Koh Samui has been built on the almost sheer face of a cliff with winding pathways linking the various parts of this incredible resort. From up here at the top there'll be an electric buggy waiting to take you further down to where Jahn and its adjacent open-air lounge bar, Glow, are situated.

Have a drink or two in Glow whilst taking in one of Samui's spectacular sunsets or go directly into Jahn itself and experience the colourful hues from air-conditioned comfort looking through the restaurant's floor-to-ceiling glass windows.

Immediately after entering Jahn, you'll feel like you're in another world. One of Oriental opulence and splendour. A place of style and sophistication with its decidedly contemporary Asian décor. Intricately patterned circular pillars, textured stone brickwork, a huge lotus blossom chandelier, discreet lighting, comfortable padded chairs and immaculately set up wooden tables combine to create the perfect environment for Thai fine-dining – and that's exactly what you'll get at Jahn.

"… and both Konrad Inghelram and Joe Diaz have worked alongside some of the world's culinary giants in their renowned Michelin-starred restaurants."

Which brings me back to the cuisine, which is Thai. But that's Thai with a capital 'S' for superb! It's not your normal everyday Thai dishes that are served here. Each dish has some novel characteristics and some also include an element of table 'theatre', which we all love. Take the Tom Yam Talay starter, for instance. A clear glass 'teapot' with an interior column filled with the necessary ingredients, such as ginger and lemongrass plus a couple of tom yam paste 'jelly cubes', is placed on your table. Your waitress then pours hot water into the pot where it dissolves the jelly and infuses the herbs. It's then up to you to pop in as many of the chili jelly cubes (that you've also been served with) as your palette requires. The resultant hot and spicy tom yam soup is then poured onto the waiting hand-dived scallops. Now that's the way to eat tom yam!

Jahn's main courses are presented with equal flair and imagination, and both the Wagyu Beef Massaman with new potatoes, pearl onions and peanuts, and the Wild Red Snapper with sweet corn, mango salad, seared scallops and tamarind glaze are testament to that – and they taste great too!

That goes for all of the mouth-watering desserts, but especially so for the Coconut Crème Brûlée (which is served in a hollowed out coconut) and the exceptional Trio of Banana – comprising a banana spring roll, a vanilla poached banana, and chocolate and banana ice-cream.

Excellent wine is another important feature at Jahn, and not only does it have a true Michelin-standard wine list (with full explanations about the various bottles and vintages), the restaurant also has its very own professional sommelier.

Yes, when Michelin eventually decide to come to Thailand they'd be well advised to make a direct beeline to Jahn – and bring plenty of stars with them!

Jahn is open from 6:00 pm with last orders at 10:00 pm. For reservations and further information, telephone 0 7791 5888.