Oh, it’s tempting. When you have a restaurant in a sought-after location you really must cram as many tables and chairs into the tightest of areas to bring back maximum returns. Mustn’t you? Well the owners of The Pier restaurant didn’t think so. They’ve kept the place spacious and uncrowded. And, by doing so, have created a restaurant that’s a cut well above the vast majority of the rest.

The location I’m talking about is Fisherman’s Village in Bophut. And just a few short years ago that’s exactly what it was. In fact, there are still some fishing boats in the small scenic bay and they now act as a rustic backdrop to the numerous restaurants which have sprung up there over the last few years.

The Pier is, perhaps, the easiest to find as it’s almost immediately in front of you as you wander down the lane towards the ‘village’ (if you’re driving, just leave your car in the parking area you see on the left before you reach the shops and, as it belongs to the same owner, parking is free for The Pier’s diners only). And, as you might expect, the restaurant is on the beachfront right next to the small pier.

The first thing you’ll notice is the bold architecture of the building. There are huge square black pillars supporting two storeys, and it’s completely open-sided allowing the cooling sea breezes to waft through. Everything here is done on a grand scale, with the semi-minimalist styling combined with lots of solid wood and bold shapes creating a place of great substance. The ceilings on both floors are at least 20 feet high, too, which adds to the overall feeling of space – and it’s not an illusion.

Occasional splashes of bright colours, such as the attractive neon signs around the cocktail bar and the freshly-picked flowers on each table, contrast perfectly with the overall black/grey colour scheme. And another feature which contrasts with the general square and straight-line theme of The Pier is the cheerful round faces of the ever-ready staff. They really do make the dining experience here a smooth and happy occasion.

So, where to sit? On the ground floor with the more formal higher tables and chairs, or on the first floor where things are a bit more casual with huge sofa-style seating complete with massive brown leather bean-bag cushions (this entire floor can be secured for private parties, too). Then, again, if you’re just here for a drink, one of the four ground-level tables with their own bean-bag cushions set on the expansive wooden terrace is the place to be (especially great at sunset with one of The Pier’s famous tropical fruit based cocktails). And, not only is this restaurant a great place to sit in, it’s also an excellent place to eat at!

“… and the Pad Thai served here is the best I’ve ever had (and I’ve had a lot!).”

There’s Thai-seafood cuisine on the menu alongside International (with a small Mexican selection), and both are interesting and varied. And I can say, with total honesty, that the famous national dish Pad Thai served here is the best I’ve ever had (and I’ve had a lot!). Another Thai dish that I personally recommend is the Crab Meat Curry with papaya, sweet basil and red curry paste in coconut milk served with egg noodle or steamed rice.

And as for the international dishes, well, for starters I have to mention the tasty Crispy Wanton Stacks with Sashimi of Maguro Red Tuna and Wasabi Mayonnaise. Excellent. And both the main course dishes, the Slow-cooked Lamb ‘Jarret’ in Mediterranean spices, and the Duck Breast with Orange Glaze Sauce, are worth writing home about.

Which leaves dessert. Although you certainly wouldn’t want to leave either the special recipe Tiramisu or the Roasted Coconut Crème Brûlée (be careful, they’re addictive!).

Yes, The Pier is definitely recommendable. Especially if you appreciate good food eaten unhurriedly in spacious surrounds. And when you stroll past some of the other restaurants in Fisherman’s Village and see the diners squashed up like sardines, you’ll realise that this recommendation is entirely valid. Even more so when you learn that it’s being managed and operated by renowned chefs Yannick Tirbois and Ilse Dumont, former proprietors of the much-celebrated The Mangrove Restaurant.

The Pier is open from 11:00 am - 12:00 pm (kitchen closes at 11:00 pm). For reservations and further information, telephone 0 7743 0681.